AND HE PROBABLY HATED SURF MUSIC.

Did I ever tell you about the time I met Greg Noll? Probably not since most of you don't know he is. He was a big wave surfer, a gutsy pioneer who excelled in giant surf, late fifties, early sixties. When he wasn't surfing, he made films, shaped surfboards and raised hell. And, as I found out roughly five years ago, sometimes he waited for his wife, in a truck in a parking lot at Ralphs, a supermarket.. Remind me to tell you about that encounter some time. Like you could give a shit. Really, I figured I better say something other than "Here's some surf music. Later." That's Noll in both photos. Check that one above, a half century before tow-ins. Imagine paddling into that on a log with block fin. You'd need a slug of juice too. There's a good reel with vintage clips at the Encyclopedia of Surfing. Now, here's some surf music. Later.

~ NOTE: ALL MEDIA IS HOSTED BY THE BLOGS & SITES NAMED BELOW ~

Listen:
The Astronauts - Baja mp3 at The California Girls
The Pyramids - Penetration mp3 at Bowling League Records
Johnny Fortune - Soul Surfer mp3 at Rocky-52
Visit:
Greg Noll at Emcyclopedia of Surfing